What does "soon as ground can be worked in spring" mean?

[ceresone]

This is confusing--plant potatoes, peas, onions, broccoli, etc soon as ground can be worked in the spring?? my raised beds can be planted in about anytime--and I know personally, that these crops can all freeze off-- so a better explanation? two weeks before last frost, I can understand-- but does the afore mentioned quote mean, plant ' plant'em and take your chances? or does someone know something I dont?

[Pharmerphil]

Ceresone, wish I had a one word answer to this...But I don't! :p

I too utilize raised beds, and of course, they are ready to plant, often very early, while a handfull of soil from the non- raised bed areas, still makes a disgusting mushy ball in your hand. :confused:
So the phrase you mention, takes on a new meaning.
I won't give planting advice, because I always "push the envelope"
It is always going to be too early, in a raised bed, when the soil can be worked.Yet, the air and ground temps, are still not leveled out.
So some basic guidelines for us are:

First, go ahead and PLANT! Perhaps one of the reasons you made raised beds was the beds ability to facilitate earlier planting.
The rest involves you, how much time, expense, and effort,you are willing to spend protecting your plantings.

A light frost occurs when the air temperature around plants drops to 32 degrees F; at that point, tender plants may be damaged. A light freeze occurs at temperatures between 29 and 31 degrees, and in that range tender plants may be destroyed; half-hardy plants may be seriously damaged.

Temperatures between 25 and 28 degrees result in a moderate freeze, which can be widely destructive to all kinds of plants, including the top growth of established ones such as fruit blossoms.
A severe freeze producing temperatures of 24 degrees and below will almost certainly destroy newly-planted, non-woody plants and may seriously damage certain established plants, especially if the ground freezes and remains frozen for several days.

I plant and watch the weather, with 'protection' at the ready.
Watch the weather for these signs, if these conditions are present, get out the reemay, or cover of choice!
The air is calm.
The temperature at sunset is cool--at or below 50 degrees.
The sky is clear at night.
The soil is cold and dry.
The air is still (No wind).
The dew point is close to or below freezing.


The average last spring frost in your area is most often very mis-leading, and can vary considerably--even within the same geographic region, and even within your own garden, provided you have areas that are either protected from the wind, or have a sunny location with higher than average temps in this "micro-climate".

If you planted and a freeze is in the forecast, then you should water both the soil and the top growth of your plants. Cover them with floating row covers, cloches, blankets, mulch or other protective devices. For herbaceous plants, rest the covers on stakes so that the weight of the cover doesn't collapse the plants.

I always have plants, and seed to replace my early plantings, should Mother Nature decide she is not ready to wake up from her winters Nap! ;)

[tashak]

Thanks, PHarmerPhil. I've always wondered the same thing. Appreciate the distinctions between types of freezes--useful.

[Sprocket]

I don't know, sometimes I am the literalist.....last year the day after I put the snowblower away I got the pick ax out and started digging...hmm no real luck and I ended up replanting. Any suggestions ; )

[drobinson]

How soon to plant? A great question. No one answer is best because Mother nature is prone to change her mind about when spring really comes.
I have a feeling that spring will be early this year because we have had a mild winter. I used to plant radishes, cabbage, brocolli, lettuce, peas, and spinach literally as soon as the ground could be worked without making clods. Typically what came up would just sit there until the ground warmed. I usually had to plant 2 to 3 times. I understand that until the ground reaches - maybe 60 degrees - the plants can't take up nitrogen etc. Some one may know the exact temp. My neighbor always waited until the ground warmed some to plant his stuff, which usually later caught up with mine, did just as well. So, now, if I want to plant early, I will cover with Remay and leave it on until frost safe and warmer temps - or, I plant in pots in a cold frame and set them out when the ground is warm.

[drobinson]

After posting the above reply, I thought - surely the internet has some stuff on optimum soil temps for various seeds. Sure enough - I punched in "soil temperatures" on Google and reaped a wonderful harvest of info, including a US map showing soil temps for Jan 31 (today). Then I opened one called "optimum soil temps for planting" and up came a great chart with lots of different seeds listed, with optimum soil temps for planting, and days to germination at optimum soil temps. They also pointed out that a few warm days does not mean the soil is very warm. Use a thermometer to really know. For the stuff I plant early, the optimum temp. for carrots is 75 degrees. For radishes, lettuce, turnips, brocolli, peas, all 65 to 70 degrees.
In fact, almost nothing apparently germinates well below 60 degrees. My neighbor was right all along to wait to plant until the soil warmed. Share!

[wildseed2u]

Hi, planting time seems to be up to the person and what he likes to plant, there is a lot of info on gardening and soil temps and times. I like many peple here will "push the envelope" as stated by another member, but have found that there is a Bottom Line to many veggies. So I lose a lot of them, but thats ok as it gets me out of the house and into the fresh air. I've been doing it for over fourty years and it for me is a love hate thing, as I hate losing my plants to early frost or late.
I have found that Greens like cole crops, radishes, lettuce, carrots and such will come back if they don't get hit to soon by the colder days. This winter has been very mild here in Missouri so much so that I have been able to keep my greens going all winter so far. I have had to lay some mulch down, but have not lost any of them. I wish I could say the same for the warm weather crops like my tomatoes that bit the dust from the first fall frost. I did manage to move a load of green tomatoes in and eat the last of them Christmas.
George W. Z5 Mo.

[ceresone]

I guess what it all boils down to is still do like the old farmers are said to have done. plop your bare bottom down on the soil, and when its barely comfortable, time to plant.
now--if i just couldnt be seen from the road...........

[louanne]

Don't ya just love PHIL....
I was out in the gardens almost all day yesterday...every once in a while quips of conversation popped into my mind.oh dont do this oh dont do that...and I sushed them away...and looked the earth at my seed and my plants and did what I do gardened....
I have a lovely showing of worms this year...they literally are everywhere....in abundance.... such a wonderful thing to see..literally every scoop of dirt has five or more wigglies in it.
I just started raising gardening beds very rustically last year...just goes to show build it and they will come....LOL
I took some hanging planters into town to a lady in my garden club who had flowers last fall the she usually just alloows to die...and some of the flowers I started in my hot house....all winter she would call and somewhere in the conversation she would ask how are they doing....originally they were going to go to my garden clubs plant sale..but she is on a fixed income and as we all know...living expenses are out of control right now with grocery prices being at a 17 year high....so she wasnt going to be able to by plants this year...
the elec company had done some trimming in her yard and she had TONS of wood stacked all over the place...
so we took the trailer and ended up getting in return a very nice load of wood to season for next year when our wood burning stove WILL be in and in use..blessings of spring....
as I look at my efforts of course I hope to have a bumper year....I think I could "waller" in tomatoes right about now...
of course I concern my self with what ifs while planting( specially when the bones ache after a full day of it)
but I also know it is part of the life of being a gardener to experiment...
what works for me...or is a disaster for me...may not be the case for you...there may be good basic guidelines and some fantastic tips...
but it is your garden...it responds to you...
I am learning everyday what will work here...and what will not..and then there will always be the exception...
blessings on it all....

[winter_unfazed]

I have wondered the same thing about "when the ground can be worked in spring", since you can work the ground all winter here in the Ozarks, except during heavy freezing spells.

[louanne]

I have been taking ground temps to determine when I put things in...got a huge ole thermometer( looks like one you might use if you were roasting a whole cow) the spike on it goes about nine inches into the ground so I figure I am geting the temp of say about at least 6 inches deep....
so far so good....
I was reading about how ground temp can effect woes of cutter worms...so I am trying it this year...I didnt have a problem last year with the late plant out here cause of the freeze...but I am pushing the envelope this year based on ground temp...so we will surely see...HA

[springfever]

I plant when I can't stand not too any longer, when the sun is warm and there's a tiny breeze and the garden is saying, COME ON! Oh, I'm not sure that is technical advise. ha ha